American Shirt-waists – Spring 1902

The torsos of four women display their American shirt-waist fashions, all with masculine-inspired elements. The woman in the upper left wears a is pale green blouse with a front button fastening, a very high turnover collar, and long sleeves. The bodice a has shaped yoke, with slight points, above sections of five small top-stitched pleats on each side. The cuffs are also pointed to match, and the sleeves are full and are gathered into the cuffs. All sections are top-stitched, with double rows of stitching on the yoke, cuffs, and collar. She wears a white cravat tied into a wide stiffened bow.

Her black hat is decorated with a riot of red flowers and green leaves. She rests her right hand on a cane and wears white gloves. The blouse on the upper right is bright pink with white and deeper pink stripes on the sleeves and bodice. It is open down the center front to show a lacy floral center section, and wide turn back lapels are also of the floral fabric, as are the cuffs.

The collar is very high, with vertical stripes. She wears a black tie tied into a knot with draped ends. Her hat is straw with a turned up brim decorated with pink flowers. She wears white gloves, and holds a cane or umbrella in her right hand. In the second row, the woman on the left faces directly forward and wears a lavender blouse with lace insertions. The collar is high with horizontal tucks and a small ruffle. Seven panels of narrow vertical white lace insertions decorate the front of the bodice, and more adorn the upper part of each sleeve.

The sleeves are full and softly gathered into the cuffs which are decorated with a narrow line of white lace. She wears a lavender floral patterned skirt, and holds in both white gloved hands a closed umbrella. A narrow band or belt of purple ribbon encircles her waist, fastened into a bow at the front. Her hat is purple with a pleated upturned brim, and is decorated with bunches of yellow flowers and green leaves.

The directness in her gaze at the viewer suggests the boldness of the suffragette movement. The last woman at the bottom right wears a bright yellow shirt with a button front. The white collar is very high and encircled with a black ribbon tie with a pouf or flower at the front, also in black. Five stitched-down soft pleats form a yoke, and the center front has top stitching on either side of the small round yellow buttons.

The long sleeves are full and gathered into narrow cuffs. The cuffs are fastened with two buttons each and are top-stitched. Her narrow black belt is crossed over in front and fastened with a round clasp or pin. She wears white gloves and holds a lorgnette in her right hand. Her hat is beige and black with a upturned brim and is decorated with a number of white plumes.

Credit: The Claremont Colleges